Monday, July 27, 2009

The Mallard Is Back

Our little feather tenant came back last week. On Tuesday we noticed that there were 12 eggs tucked neatly under a layer of down feathers in the rosemary bush, but the mama was not there. She started with the incubation the next morning, so around Aug. 18th there should be another dozen little ducklings.

I thought it was soon for the duck to lay the eggs again, but, hey, it's the duck business. :)

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Closed on Sundays

I usually try not to go to any stores or restaurants on Sundays. I respect it to be a holy day meant for rest and worship, and me going to those places would encourage people to work on Sunday. I understand though, that someone may have another day of the week off, and thus get their needed rest on that day.

This Sunday, however, I decided to pick up something from Hobby Lobby on the way back from the church. I was pleasantly surprised when I saw they are not open on Sundays and especially when I read the sign explaining why: "We are closed on Sundays to allow our employees time for family and worship"

Kudos to Hobby Lobby management for not only giving their people time to rest with their families, but also recognizing it as a day for worship.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

A Dead Opossum

How to dispose of a dead opossum?

My brother just told me we had one in our backyard couple of days before I came back. He's not sure for how long it has been there, because by the time he saw it, it was already hard as a stone. But, in this Texas heat, it could have lost all moisture in a day.

He picked it up with a shovel, stuck it in two plastic bags, and then threw the bags in our garbage can. This was on Saturday. The smell was still horrible when I arrived Monday evening and we had to close the garage doors as soon as we park in so that the smell doesn't get into the house. Finally the trash was collected yesterday.

Is there some agency that deals with dead wild animals we could call if something like this happens again?

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Almost Like Beach

I ate lunch again in the courtyard between the two buildings at NI. I was in the deep shade and there was quite a bit of breeze, enough to blow away pieces of my salad. It felt good to be outside. I wasn't hot at all, with that breeze and the shade, even though it was 104 F that day. I was by myself and just enjoyed the nature and the quiet. I could hear the crickets chirping and with the stone and vegetation around, it reminded me of the beach. The crickets were loud, just like they are on the hot summer days on the coast. I could almost replace in my mind the noise from the highway for the wave crashing sound.....

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Back Home

Four flights and 21 hours later, I am back in Austin. This time there were no delays in flights, and all connections went the best way they can (I had to stand in line for hour and a half for passport control in Chicago with all other foreigners, but I expected that drill). The only casualty was my suitcase that now has both locks broken, and arrived covered with duck tape to hold it together.

It is good to be home. I thought about it before I left Sarajevo, how traveling both directions I have something to look forward to and do not feel sad or anxious to go. When going to Sarajevo, I am excited about going on vacation and spending time with mom. When going to Austin, I am looking forward to arriving into my home and seeing friends.

Today I feel a bit tired, still. I didn't have enough sleep with the jet leg, and woke up with a head ache. I am catching up with all the emails at work, but decided to try something new. I rarely go to lunch in our cafeteria, maybe 10 times in these 9 years I've been here, but today I decided to have a salad and eat it in the courtyard between the two buildings. I enjoyed being outside, even though it was hot even in the shade. I already miss the possibility of walking to places like I had in Europe and people watching. I'd like to find some ways of being around more people in Austin....

Saturday, July 11, 2009

The Nudist Beach

Nudist beaches are fairly common in Europe, and there are few on the Adriatic coast. On most beaches in Croatia, it is common to find few women topless. Still, many men, and women, observers find this phenomena fascinating.

On one of our excursions in Istra, our boat was passing by the largest nudist camp in Europe, Vrsar, that can hold up to 12,000 people. It is not just a beach, but a little village of campers. I've never heard of it, but it was advertised in the travel agency bulletin, by our bus tour guide, and by the boat sailors. People from our bus were talking about it during the trip and were looking forward to this boat excursion. I don't condemn the style of the campers, but I cannot justify the behavior of the onlookers.

I am not often around people who would want to sit on a boat and peep at naked people on the shore. After getting to know some of the people on the long bus ride from Sarajevo, I was not really surprised by this behavior. Still, I was uncomfortable and appalled.

During this travel, I carried with me a binoculars, so I can see distant nature, islands and buildings that we couldn't visit. I had it with me during this excursion, but I certainly didn't want it to be passed from hand to hand while sailing by the nudist beach. Mom was using it when we first left the port to look at hotels in the distance. I asked her not to share it, but when couple of people asked her about it, she gave it into their hands. I then had to put it back in my bag before we got to the beach. But people started asking me for it.

I am rarely the one who argues ideas and preach by words, and I certainly didn't want to make a scene and teach the people, some twice my age, that what they are doing is wrong. Few of them started pleading for the binoculars, telling me not to spoil the fun and similar phrases, but I didn't give in. I just told one man that he should be ashamed to ask for something like it when he is married and came on this trip with a pre-teen daughter. Another couple, who could have children my age, also asked for the binoculars, and I just shook my head.

I was probably ridiculed later in their conversations as a 'moralist', but I was glad I stood out in the crowd. This country is sinking fast when it comes to values, and I am thankful for any mockery if it can help preserve the dignity of a human person.

Friday, July 10, 2009

Pula and Brijuni

The last day of our trip started with a presentation of Global Tours products right after breakfast. It is the same company that organized this trip and they sell wool and similar type mattresses and buddings. It is way too pricey, but people were still buying. They were selling some pillows for 30 EUR, that have special fibers, magnets threads....yadi, yadi, yada. The entire set, that included a mattress, mattress cover, some boards for under the mattress, two pillows and a cover were 1400 EUR. Someone still bought it. Other things were travel pillows, some Indian nuts for laundry washing, a creme for joints and all sorts of cures... Mom and I just sat there and listened as we had to.

Then we boarded the bus, with our lovely tour guide from Istra, Petra. Entire way to Paula, she was telling us of the places we were passing by; the 'Y' main road through Istra, an ancient double-town Dvograd with only stone walls left; The smallest town in the world Hum, with only 14 people for as long as it exists.... The one hour ride went by in no time.

The main land mark of Pula is the arena, where the gladiators fought with lions in the ancient Rome. Some stone walls around the city are from the first century.




After the walking tour, we went to the boat tour around the island of Brijuni. The former president Tito had his summer residences there, and it was covered with a veil of mystery during the communist time. It was closed for public until the 80s. This tourist organization offers tours of Brijuni during the winter months, but they canceled it for us because it is too crowded and expensive this time of year. However, since most of us complained we were not informed of the change, they arranged it for us to go on a boat tour around the island. The lunch, fish on the grill, with drinks and wine was also included. The boat owner even took the accordion and played and sang few Bosnian songs. Everyone relaxed down after the wine, started singing and clapping. It was a great ending of this trip. We boarded the bus and were on our way to Sarajevo, only 12 hours more. Sarajevo welcomed us with a downpour like I've never seen before here.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Rovinj and Vrsar

After a long awaited sleep in a quiet room, we started the second day of our tour well rested. After breakfast, we went on a tour of west coast of Istra. We went by blue and green lagoon, Roman canal, Pirates cove, Vrsar nudist beach and camp for 12,000 visitors, and ended in Rovinj. It took us about two and a half hours to get there. Before we left the boat for the tour, we had lunch, fish from the grill on the boat while slowly sailing around the city.

In Rovinj we saw church of St. Eufemija. She was born in Kanceldon, in little Asia. During the reign of Czar Diocletian, she was suffered martyrdom because of her faith, and died as a young girl in 304. Her body was preserved in marble sarcophagus in Kanceldon, and then in Carigrad until year 800. Then icon-fighters came to power, and the remains in the sarcophagus were in danger. A myth says that the sarcophagus disappeared from Carigrad and appeared on the coast of Rovinj in late 800 and is kept there ever since.

Paula is also famous for its film festival, so many streets are adorned with theatrical decorations.
Next we went with the boat back to Vrsar and spent some three and a half hours on the beach. The water was maybe 19 degrees Celsius and was much cleaner than in Makarska. The beach is made of small pebbles, but mom and I swam over to a small Island on the other side of the cove and there were some sand beaches there.



We wanted to have a coffee in the restaurant on the beach, and had a very unpleasant experience. There were only a couple of occupied tables on the terrace out of maybe 20 of them. We approached one to check out the menu and then walked along the fence to pick a table with most shade. We asked a lady who brought food to table next to us if they accept credit cards, and she told she has to ask inside. When she went in, mom overheard a man inside say: “they were picking where to sit for half an hour, now let them wait!” I told her it can’t be about us, we weren’t taking long and how could someone be so rude to the customers. Few minutes later a man passed us and went to serve people at another table who got there after us. When he came to us, mom asked him if he was the one commenting (komentarisao) inside. He first corrected her saying that he didn’t “komentarisao” (Bosnian) but “komentirao” Croatian. I thought this was already rude to correct the language as we were not speaking right, something that he for sure wouldn’t say to another stranger who spoke a foreign language. Then he continued to tell us how we were picky where we’ll sit, and he had to wait on us to sit until he can serve us. (we don’t have the same word in Bosnian, but isn’t waiting on someone really serving them?) I tried to tell him that it’s his job to wait and not push customers away with comments like those, and we just left the restaurant. I am usually very tolerable at people’s comments, but I thought this was totally uncalled for, and it would never happen if we spoke some other language.
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We had less than an hour to get ready for dinner, after which they had a musician play while most of us set on the terrace and getting acquainted with each other. He was upset people weren’t inside listening and dancing, but without the AC in the hotel, the tables outside were just so much more inviting.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Mediterranean-Continental-Mediterranean climate

Our adventure on the Adriatic coast continues. Our last day in Makarska, we still had great weather. I can’t get enough of being thankful for this great weather and temperatures that are following us everywhere. We spent the morning at the beach, at a new location that has better entrance into the water and more shade. A little bit of swimming, laying on the beach, playing cards, having coffee and lunch. Still thinking of those days I get a feeling of relaxation.

Our van picked us up around five and it took us just under five hours to get to Sarajevo around 10 PM. We had just over an hour to feed and play with our bird, repack, eat and get to the next bus tour at midnight. Mom was anxious to make sure we are not late, so we showed up half an hour earlier in front of the (zemaljski) Museum. There were already few people there and the bus that was still closed, but the guide was not there. Everyone was checking out the best seats in the bus since it was going to be a long ride. Our guide, Miss Fata, finally showed up nine minutes before midnight after we were all starting to wonder if that will ever happen. She told us to wait to get in until she calls out the names. To our total surprise, she called to other two ladies and mom and I to sit in first front seats at the top in the bus – the best seats. She explained that we reserved those seats before hand, and they usually reserve those seats for people who have motion sickness, some heart conditions or are pregnant. We quickly walked between the people who already started to argue, still not realizing how we fit in that category. We concluded it must be all the phone calls we made before the trip and asked for good seats that scored us the front row. It was really great, the view and the leg room is much better in the front, especially because the bus was older and the road for the most part is windy.

We were hoping to fall asleep soon so we can be somewhat fresh tomorrow. However, next to us were sitting two ladies who didn’t travel much, and from all emotions and maybe fear of driving so high up on the curvy road, were talking the entire time. And talking loud. They weren’t just chatting, but were commenting on every single thing they see: a lovely pasture, one way street sign, name of each village we pass, long tunnel, high bridge, ….
We tried to tell them few times to keep it down in a very nice way, but I don’t think we were able to sleep for more than couple of hours. It was so nice when by morning they finally fell asleep a bit. :)

I don’t think I knew how long the ride was going to be. We went through northern Bosnia, crossed the border somewhere after Jajce, through Lika, and saw the sea on the mountain before Rijeka. We arrived to Opatija on the coast around 11.30 am, after almost 12 hours in the bus. Opatija is a small town, but is full of hotels in beautiful buildings of an old style. We only had an hour to sight sea on our own, so mom asked few people where the main square with certain hotels is, since she visited there long time ago. We walked on our own, not with the group. We also found a great pastry shop and got some lunch there. The weather was great (but we didn’t expect anything else:))

After another hour or two more on the bus, we arrived to our hotel in Baderna, 12 km from Porec. It was so great to take a shower and change, but we only had one hour before continuing onto our afternoon tour of Porec.

Porec is a fairly small city with 13,000 people including the suburbs. They live solely off of tourism, so during winter it is like a ghost town. We saw the theatre, the remains of the city walls, and the Eufrasian Basilica from the 6th century. Unlike our bus guide, the girls who was giving us the tour in Porec, Petra, was absolutely great. She was very knowledgeable, personable and professional. She also had a cute accent that is a mix of Dalmatian and Italian, which just made it more interesting to listen to her. We then had another hour to spend on our won before our bus ride back to hotel at 6.15 pm. Mom and I spent it trying to find a nice café next to the water but we didn’t find any. We figure we’ll make our own coffee later in the room, since we brought an electric pot. We then craved for a cherry ice cream on a stick, but again we couldn’t find that kind. We finally settled for a couple of scoops of cherry ice cream in a place closest to the marina. This lack of places to enjoy eating and drinking by the water left an unlikable picture of Porec in my mind.
In our room, we took the chairs from the room out onto the balcony and had the coffee there. The room view was out toward some green pastures and few other houses in the distance, but it was still a peaceful scenery. The dinner was great and the program with a magician as well. We were finally in bed by midnight, and it couldn’t come any sooner.

Monday, July 6, 2009

Relaxing On the Beach

These couple of days were so lazy and relaxing. We would wake up when we feel like it and then have our coffee on the balcony which is in a shade in the mornings. The beach is just five minutes walk away. They say there are at least 30% less guests this season, but the beaches are packed. People put their towels close to each other, and you can barely walk between them. The weather is great, just a few puffy clouds and the water is not cold, even for me. It's not warm as lake Travis, but definitely not cold as Barton Springs. I heard someone say it's 27C (~82F). We swim for about a mile three times a day.

We stay in the shade most of the day, play cards, eat lunch, nap, or just enjoy the scenery which is beautiful. Everything here is just relaxing, even people seem to be more relaxed. Mom noticed it, that here it just feels like it's vacation, because everyone on the streets just looks so relaxed. We take one 'break' from the beach and sit for a coffee and some snack in one of dozens restaurants and cafes on the beach. We saw a parrot fly on the beach among the pine treas. Wild parrots are not common here, so it was a special treat to see one - just for us.

Around 6-7 we head back to the apart met, have another coffee, shower and change for dinner. Then we take another long stroll down the main Riva with all the tourists, and have dinner - fish from the frill caught that day. The boat restaurant with open terrace on two levels is in the center of Makarska, and all the locals and tourists walk by. Last night we saw two families we know from Sarajevo. Makarska is a favorite vacation spot for Sarajevans. Besides them, there are mainly people from Poland, Check Republic, Slovakia, and few Germans and Croatians.

The apartment owner lady was very nice today and gave us a discount on the room and even let us call the van driver in Bosnia from her phone. We have one more half day left and we'll make the most of it. After that we'll have a four hour trip to Sarajevo, and after a couple of hour break another long bus drive to northern Adriatic, Istra.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

4th of July

We came to Makarska on the Adriatic coast today around noon. We went with the same van driver we had couple of years ago we were here. Mom and I were the last two passengers on the route and we only had the address on paper and general idea where it is, and didn't really know where exactly it is located. We stopped several times and asked the locals and no one knew where this street is. We even asked people who were walking on this street, before we knew which street it is. The street signs are obviously missing. We even called the lady from the van, and her description was still not exactly accurate.

After more than half an hour, we saw a lady we didn't know waving at us from across the street. She was the one we talked on the phone. Apparently, she wasn't sure we would be coming, so she wasn't waiting at home. She was very welcoming, and helped mom roll the suitcase. The direction she was taking us wasn't to our liking, especially when we saw the stairs and up the hill. Then we came to an apartment building and started climbing more stairs, all the way to the 5th floor. Every now and then mom and I would look at each other and roll our eyes. When we finally got to the apartment, we realized that she also lives there. The part that she is renting is in the attic. It is nicely decorated, but it only has ceiling windows, no kitchen, and we'd have to come to the main apartment to leave the place. This is not what we expected. When she advertised apartment for rent, we thought it is an apartment unit in a house, like a studio, with bedroom, bathroom, kitchen and the eating area in one place. We didn't want to stay in an apartment on the 5th floor, especially not to share it with the owner who is eager to talk to us all the time. We wanted some privacy, actually all the privacy. While mom was talking with her, I went to the attic bathroom and called another lady we stayed with before, who said although she doesn't have any rooms her neighbour does and that we can come.

It was difficult to explain to this lady who was nice to us that we'd want to look for something else. She wasn't, however, really expecting us, so I didn't feel we were cheating her on an agreement or anything like that. The place just wasn't what we thought we were going to get. She was kind enough to recommend her friend in the house next door, who is renting the kind of apartments we were looking for. We checked it out, it was nice, and a decent price, but we still wanted to check the other place with the lady we stayed with before. That one was closer to the beach but the terrace was looking just at the other building, so we decided to stay with the place the nice lady recommended. We spent over an hour figuring all this out, and were soaked from the heat by the time we got the room.

The room was really nice. We took a cold shower, since the heater was not on long enough yet, and went to the beach. After just a few moments in the water, the rain started, so we went under a tree to have something to eat while it's raining. Most people left the beach, but the rain lasted no more than 5-10 min, and we were in the sun again. We took a nap in the shade, and stayed there until past 6pm. It was nice to just lay there and not have to think about anything. When we got to our room, there was still no hot water. After a cold shower, we had our coffee and got ready for dinner. On our way out, we told the owner about the hot water problem, and they discovered the heater was broken. They moved us to yet another room, which was even better, with much larger bathroom. I am happy with the outcome.

We walked on the main beach board walk buzzing with tourists from all over, and then went for dinner at a place that's dear to both of us. It is on a boat docked on the main Riva. We had fish from the grill, that they catch every day, and some wine and beer with it. Just as we were done, there was a fireworks, I assumed for 4th of July, but I really don't know. We watched it from the boat. It was great.

We continued onto the main square, which was packed with people listening to a concert of some sort, I think it was Makarska Nights festival. Mom had ice cream and I a cake, and we walked back home the same way. I have a sense we'll have a nice time here.

Friday, July 3, 2009

Preparation For the Beach Trip

Today again we were lucky not to get rained on. The mornings are usually sunny, but since we don't get moving until noon, we usually get some sprinkles. Mom's knee and leg are feeling fine today.

We walked to the post office to pay for our trip to Istra. Then walked some more to one store and were thinking of getting another umbrella because thunder was rolling in. Instead, we went for a coffee in a place with covered patio, hoping to wait there till the shower is gone. It was a bit windy and clouds moved through, but only a few rain drops. We saw my cousin at the restaurant as we were leaving, and then stayed another half an hour chatting with him. The restaurant is part of a large grocery store where we bought some items for the trip tomorrow. The rain moved away and we walked back home. By now, I am used to all the walking.

After dinner I met up with another friend I haven't spoke since the last time I was here. She and her sister were in Belgrade during the war at the same time as I was. Her and I were returning home to Sarajevo together and spent three weeks on the Serb side of the city before we were able to reunite with our families, so we shared some special memories.

Tonight we packed for our trip tomorrow morning. We are leaving before 7 am with a van that will pick us up. We should be on the coast by 11.30 am and are staying until Tuesday afternoon. Then we'll just come home to repack that evening and are leaving again at midnight for the trip to northern Croatia coast. My godmother sr. Auksilija also called me today, and it seems we should be able to meet up when I come back next Saturday.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Getting Things Done

I am amazed with how much we can do in one day even though we use public transportation and don't have luxury of a car. Being a bit patient helps, too. The clouds keep the temperatures comfortable and little summer sprinkle actuallly helps to cool things down.

Today we got a lot accomplished. The morning we spent calling different places in Makarska trying to find where we'll spent the three nights we plan to be there. We were not that successful, and the only apartment we found was not looking to the sea, and was more expensive than we planned. Around noon we took a trolley to Dobrinja. Mom visited her doctor to get a new prescription. We waited longer in line than we anticipated, because of the strike of health workers that is here every day between 10 am and noon for two weeks. The doctor's son was trying to go to study in the US, so we stayed longer talking about that. While waiting, we checked out adds in a news paper, and wrote down couple of numbers of people renting their houses in Makarska.

After the hospital we went for a coffee in a garden next door. As one of the decorations they had a steam-pot oven, the kind that was used in the war. It was surrounded with roses. In the distance we were able to see a little bridge that during the war was almost impossible to cross; it had sand bags stacked on each side up to the end of the rail, and people had to run bent down. Memories like these flesh back at me every day I am here.

We then walked down the main avenue to our old apartment to pick up bills in the mail box and check out the place. Our last stop was the tailor for another dress fitting. We had to wait about half an hour for a trolley back downtown, probably because of the very heavy rain on that side of the town. Also, the US Embassy was celebrating the 4th of July in the evening, so a part of the street in front was going to be closed and trolleys going there, that we were taking, canceled. At the bus stop we saw Mr. Ante, and older gentlemen I used to sing with in the choir. He is still so lively and optimistic and it's really refreshing to talk with him.

After the trolley ride we walked through an outside market to get some things for our beach trip and an umbrella. We then caught a bus to the cemetery, which was next on our agenda. It took me over an hour to pick out all the weeds that grew in the last two months while mom was holding the umbrella over be. It took us another 30 min, with some roads closed to get downtown. We went to couple of souvenir shops and then to a well deserved lunch/dinner - our favorite kebab place, Zheljo. With so many people on the street, we finally ran into someone I knew; our neighbours from before the war. Their daughter is just a bit younger from me, and I remember her as a kid always being shorter than me, and I haven't seen her since. Now she is a head taller than me, and has two kids.

Next we stopped at few desert places until we found the one that had good location for people watching and good selection. We set in what we call the shop window - a table up front in front of the open store window, were everyone can see us and we them.

On our ride home I saw the same friend I spent the last evening with. Walking down the stairs my mom fell down, while looking at her friend's windows who had just returned back to Sarajevo, luckily onto the grass. She has a bruise and a scratched knee, but hopefully she'll feel well tomorrow, and well enough to travel on Saturday.

In the evening we called one of those numbers in Makarska we found in the newspaper. It turned out mom's good colleague was just staying, and the owner used to live here and is a cosine of good friends of ours here in Sarajevo. The apartment is in a good location, and she gave us a good price, so we'll most likely go there.

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

A Day For Shopping And Visits

The weather in Sarajevo is still cloudy and temperatures comfortable for walking. I enjoy sleeping in and not making any plans but for one day each morning. On Wednesday we spent the morning inside, calling several people about our trip to northern Croatia, Istra, later next week. It is somewhat frustrating how unprofessional and unorganized tourist agencies and many other public workers are. By Wednesday morning we haven't received anything in the mail about this trip that is less than a week away. We didn't leave the apartment until almost 3 PM.

We went to a shopping mall looking for a soccer outfit from Sarajevo club for my brother. Only one sport store had only one shirt, and it way too expensive. Nobody knew where jerseys are sold elsewhere. We late stopped at the club's headquarters, but they were closed too. We made our usually stroll in the pedestrian zone downtown, and got another souvenir shirt for my brother. All the windows shopping exhausted us, and we first went to a desert and our favorite old place and then for a coffee in a very nice secluded garden. It was almost 6 PM when we left.

In the evening I met with a good friend of mine from Dobrinja. We don't talk or see each other for couple of years until I come here, but then we continue our conversations like we see each other all the time.. We walked through downtown, and she showed my what's new to see. Then went to the opening of Bashcharshiya Nights festival, the "Vienna Concert". It was held on a square in front of the city town hall building. I rarely come to Sarajevo during this festival, so I was really happy to be able to be here for the opening night. It was very comfortable to be outside, and the square was full. I am still in awe to see so many people on the streets. We then went for a drink in one restaurant with a nice garden by the river.